Bike sorted

Yesterday Mark suggested putting the original, shorter spring cups back in to increase the pressure on the clutch plates. I wasn't too keen because the experts I'd spoken to in the past seem to think that the shorter cups were the cause of the clutch lever being so heavy - see the earlier post on this matter.

However, Roger Taylor from RTS Racing called me back yesterday and said he had seen C15's with both longer and shorter cups in. I said that I had read on various forums that people claim that "all British bikes' clutches slipped when they were new or rebored" but to be honest, nobody would ever have bought a bike if they slipped like mine was yesterday 'cos you can't get the damn thing to start - and without bragging, I'm good at kickstarting difficult bikes.

Roger also pointed out that the same clutch is used in the B40 which is much more powerful than my bike, so Mark came round today to put the old cups back in. I say "give me a hand", but from my stool I watched him:

1. drain the oil from the primary chaincase;
2. remove the footpeg, remembering that it is a left-hand thread!
3. remove the primary cover;

At that point, he kicked the bike over and we could see that while the chain was turning, the clutch wasn't. As Roger said, there's a good chance that with the longer cups in the clutch was maybe only gripping on the first plate.

I then watched him:

1. remove the four screws, springs, longer cups and pressure plate;
2. put the shorter cups in;
3. replace springs, screws and pressure plate;
4. adjust the screws so that the pressure plate was spinning evenly;
5. kickstart it over first time without the clutch slipping - huzzah!

Interestingly, the clutch lever is still lovely and light...

All that was left was for him to put it all back together and put my tools away while I put the kettle on.

RTS engine quote

The bill for my engine rebuild will be £850-900 ish. That includes new alpha big end, main bearings, rebore, new piston and rings, valves and springs etc, plus cams and larger inlet valve.  I'd hoped it would be around £750:00 but I suppose the cam and inlet valve modification are worth the extra.  I see no point in doing so much work on the engine, knowing that the head needed sorting out, and not completing the job properly for the sake of £150:00. 

At least the bike will be up to spec apart from the front forks and indicators. We can then fit the indicators and put some oil in the forks and see if any oil leaks and, depending on how fast any leak might be, that will help me decide whether to just keep topping the forks up, or consider having the forks repaired!

Replacing the distributor clamp

As usual, click any image to zoom in.

	These photos are actually from a while ago but I've only just found them on my pinhole camera obscura.
	Mike Kilvert (the seller of Mark's bike) came up with his Dad, Rich (that's what he told us, anyway) a few days after selling it to try to sort out why Mark's bike wouldn't start when cold.
	At the time we thought the clamp holding the distributor was moving so we bought a replacement and fitted it with their help.
	We haven't got a fancy stand to lift the bike into the air so we just rested it on Mike's knee and the foot peg!
One neat trick was using a screwdriver to pull the kickstart spring out of the way so that they could remove the inner cover.		We had trouble getting the inner cover back on though. Turned out that the shaft between the kickstart and the gear lever was coming under a hydraulic effect so we had to use a syringe to remove oil from the hole it sits in.